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Shizuoka's old Shuzenji hot spring town, wasabi, tea plantations

Wasabi stems harvested in Shizuoka Prefecture, just west of Tokyo, dominate the market!

This post is Part 2 of my coverage of Shizuoka Prefecture, just west of Tokyo. Most foreign travelers miss this zone, known as the Japanese Riviera (a name shared by 2-3 areas of Japan with special micro climates including Ise and east coast of the Kii Peninsula). It has been a high-end weekend and retreat destination for the affluent of Tokyo even before the bullet train arrived in 1964. Hidden farmhouses and homes woven into the coastal hills of Izu Peninsula and also in the center of the northern half of the peninsula.

FYI: Part 1 of my Shizuoka Prefecture coverage covered these topics: A Japanese farmhouse overnight in tea plantation land ; wandering along the Tokaido highway in Shizuoka Pref ; the fresh & saltwater charms of Lake Hamana; Izu Kogen: volcano heights and foodie terraces to the Jogasaki Coast.

Shizuoka Prefecture Part 2 covers the ancient retreat of Shuzenji onsen hotspring village, Shizuoka's wasabi horseradish dominance in Japan, and the opportunities offered by Shizuoka's incredible tea plantation landscapes:

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Shizuoka's Izu Peninsula's ancient Shuzenji onsen town

Shuzenji onsen town lies partially hidden among hills and mountains on the Izu Peninsula, about 12 km inland from the east coast and less than 5 km inland from the peninsula's west coast. This town is home to many traditional inns and well-designed modern hotels, bamboo forest paths, and fairytale bright-red bridges. Shuzenji has been referred to as the "little Kyoto" for over 1,000 years (along with other locations like Kanazawa) and then as the little Edo (Tokyo) of the Edo period (1603-1868). Nobel Prize winner Kawabata Yasunari set his famous The Dancing Girl of Izu novel in the greater Shuzenji region of Izu. So, when you are in Shuzenji you are able to see over a 1,000 years of "living history." Travelers are drawn to Shuzenji's blend of traditional ryokan inns, lush gardens, historic temples, and the soothing presence of natural hot springs. Here’s everything you need to know about the background of Shuzenji and its must-see attractions. And all this is just a hour or so west of Tokyo by bullet train and then private rail line to Shuzenji Station.

Highlight locations in Shuzenji Town

Shuzenji Temple: The spiritual heart of Shuzenji town is Shuzen-ji Temple. It was founded over 1,200 years ago by the revered early Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi. The temple is celebrated for its bamboo groves, cherry blossoms in spring, and a hilltop setting perfect for quiet reflection.

Tokko no Yu: This legendary hot spring is said to have been "discovered" by early Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi himself (in the 9th century!). The small, riverside public footbath beneath a wooden gazebo is a unique way to experience onsen culture whilst looking at the Katsura River.

Shuzenji Niji-no-Sato: This family-friendly theme park is great for its vintage-style miniature steam train rides, gardens, and seasonal flower displays.

Shuzenji Bairin Plum Garden: This large ume plum tree garden is delightful for hiking.

Asahi Falls: A short drive from the town center, Asahi Falls is a scenic waterfall surrounded by lush greenery. It’s a great spot for those seeking a quiet escape into nature and offers a refreshing contrast to the town’s hot springs and historic sites.

Izu Panorama Park: For breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji and the Izu landscape, Izu Panorama Park is accessible via a cable car that ascends to a mountain-top terrace. The park features a restaurant and souvenir shop, making it a popular excursion for panoramic sightseeing.

Arai Ryokan: Arai Ryokan is an iconic 19th-century hot spring inn known for its riverside setting, historic architecture, and exquisite hot spring bathing.

Asaba Ryoka: This ryokan inn stands out for its luxurious & refined aesthetics, and quiet big rooms with private hot spring baths attached. They also offer a rare chance to experience traditional Noh theater performances. It’s ideal for travelers seeking luxury, cultural depth, and an immersive Japanese experience.

Amago-jaya (river fish specialty restaurant): The famous restaurant specializes in local river fish cuisine in a cozy, tourist-friendly setting. It’s a great place to sample dishes unique to the Izu area and frequented by families and solo travelers (mostly Japanese of course!).

Hakoyu onsen hot spring: This modern onsen hot spring was built to replace an old hot spring facility previously located on the same spot. In 1204, the old hot spring was attacked and the Kamakura shogun Minamoto no Yorii, who was bathing here, was killed.

Tokko no yu hot spring: Tokko no yu is an open-air onsen hidden by a colorful pergola and a high wooden fence. The birth of Shuzenji village is said to have occurred when the early Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi (or Kukai ; 9th century) was meditating here on a cold winter morning. After meditating he saw a boy washing his ill father in river's freezing waters. Moved by this sight, Kukai hit a big rock with his tokko metallic cane and hot water emerged from the crack. Soon after more hot springs were discovered and the village became a spa (over 1200 years ago!).

Shuzenji's red bridges: Shuzenji is famous for two spectacular bright red bridges: the Katsura Bridge (named after the river) and the Kaede Bridge. Both bridges look over a heavily green landscape living free on the river banks of either side.

Shizuoka: the birthplace of wasabi cultivation

Despite the fact that "wasabi" is now used extensively worldwide, shockingly few people are familiar with this plant. For thousands of years, wasabi has grown wild in the mountains of Japan; full-scale production started in Shizuoka over 500 years ago. The plant requires very specialized circumstances to develop, including a lot of cold, clean flowing water and a north-facing, stable climate. It may take up to three years for a wasabi plant to reach a size suitable for harvesting, even in ideal conditions. Wasabi is among the priciest vegetables in the world because of these factors.

Japanese horseradish, often known as wasabi, is indigenous to the Korean Peninsula, the Russian Far East, and Japan. In Japan, it grows organically alongside stream beds in highland river valleys.

Wasabi is cultivated for its roots, or rhizomes, which are then mashed into a paste and used as a spicy garnish for sushi and other dishes. Although freshly grated wasabi has a subtle flavor difference, it tastes more like hot mustard or horseradish than chilli peppers, stimulating the nose more than the tongue. Five minutes after grating, freshly grated wasabi is at its peak, and by fifteen minutes, it begins to lose its actual flavor.

How wasabi is packaged, sold and used in Japan

Wasabi paste, a strong, spicy spice that goes well with sushi and other dishes, is made mostly from wasabi. The rhizome, the stem, or the "rhizome plus the base section of the stem" are the parts that are utilized to make wasabi paste. This portion of the plant is typically the only one sold in stores. Small portions of the fresh rhizome are consumed at a time after being shredded into a paste. The root is traditionally grated using coarse sharkskin, although more recently, metal graters known as oroshigane are employed. In some upscale establishments, wasabi paste is grated right there because it quickly loses its flavor if left uncovered.[18] In order to conceal the wasabi and maintain its flavor, sushi chefs typically sandwich it between the rice and the fish. Typically produced from dried wasabi powder, store-bought wasabi paste comes in bottles or tubes that resemble toothpaste.

Many dishes, particularly dry snacks, can be flavored with wasabi. Wasabi-mame are roasted or fried legumes (such as peas, soybeans, or peanuts) that are then covered in wasabi powder and consumed as a snack.

Although fresh wasabi leaves have a strong flavor and can be eaten raw, diarrhea is a common side effect.[14] Shizuoka Prefecture is known for its wasabizuke, which is produced from wasabi leaves pickled in sake lees.

Compared to the effects of capsaicin in chilli peppers, wasabi's burning sensations are fleeting and are removed with additional food or liquid because they are not oil-based. Depending on how much is ingested, the sensation, which is mostly felt in the nose canal, might be severe. Researchers trying to develop a smoke alarm for the deaf have taken advantage of the effect that wasabi vapor has on the senses, which is similar to that of smelling salts. After ten seconds of wasabi vapor being blasted into his sleeping chamber, one deaf participant in a prototype test woke up. The researchers' discovery of the optimal density of wasabi in the air to wake people in an emergency situation earned them the 2011 Ig Nobel Prize in Chemistry.

The top-notch wasabi producers in the Izu Peninsula

Large-scale wasabi cultivation, which is challenging even under the best circumstances, is only feasible in a few locations. Wasabi is mostly grown in the prefectures of Shizuoka, Nagano, Iwate, and Shimane in Japan. Two types of wasabi are grown by wasabi farmers in Japan. Hata (field) wasabi, which grows in soil, and Sawa (mountain stream) wasabi, which grows in shallow cold water, are the highest grades. Nearly half of all wasabi farmed in Japan is produced in Shizuoka, which is home to some of the biggest "Sawa" wasabi fields!

The most well-known terraced wasabi growing regions are located at Utogi (north of Shizuoka Station) and south of Mishima Station. Both locations are reachable by automobile and provide a rare look at how labor-intensive the process can be.

Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Shizuoka's super-green tea plantations

About 40% of all of Japan’s green tea is grown in Shizuoka, so it is a reputation that is warranted and anywhere you go in the Prefecture you will see large and small plantations with row upon row of green tea hedges.

Izu Nagaoka's mini tea worlds: Traveling 20 minutes South of Mishima Station, on the Izu Hakone Line, is the small town of Izu Nagaoka. Although Izu is not a big green tea producer, there are a few smaller producers that offer visitors Shizuoka green tea experiences. At Kuraya Narusawa (a 5 min taxi ride or a 20-min walk from Izu Nagaoka Station) you can dress in a traditional outfit and enjoy a tea picking experience in their onsite tea plantation – it is a small field but on a clear day offers a great view of the majestic Mt. Fuji. After tea picking, try some of the craft beer brewed on site or visit the World Heritage Nirayama Reverberatory Furnace – an iron smelting facility used to make cannons still standing after more than 150 years. You could also visit the Izu Panorama Park for spectacular views of Mt. Fuji.

The famous landscape around the Obuchi Sasaba plantation: When you see travel books, magazines or articles about traveling in Japan the images invariably include shots of Mt. Fuji. The most enchanting images are of majestic Mt Fuji in the background with either cherry trees or undulating tea plantations in the foreground. Some of the best images of Mt. Fuji with rows of green tea in the foreground are taken at the Obuchi Sasaba or Imamiya tea plantations of Fuji City. In late April, when the year’s first tea leaves are ready to be picked, the greens are vibrant, and Mount Fuji, on a clear day, is still topped with lots of snow. Both tea plantations are a 25-30 minute taxi ride from Shin-Fuji Station.

The perfect biking path to the Moriuchi tea farm: If your GPS is next level then rent a bike from JR Shizuoka Station go up the Abekawa River, into the high hills (with Fuji to the north) and the Moriuchi Tea Far. They welcome visitors to tour the plantation and experience all aspects of green tea production and preparation (picking, steaming and hand-rolling). Relax in their 150 year old private home and learn more about why green tea is such an important part of Japanese life and learn more about the complexities of this drink.

The vast green Makinohara Plains or Uplands: The “Makinohara Plains” or “Makinohara Uplands” are a stretch of green tea plantations that cover about 5,000 hectares (12,355 acres) in central Shizuoka Prefecture (roughly 10% of all green tea fields in Japan!). The Makinohara Plains start just South of Shimada Station which is a 18 minute train ride from Kakegawa Station or 27 minutes from Shizuoka Station on the JR Tokaido Line. The tea plantations wind their way down from there circumnavigating the Mt. Fuji Shizuoka Airport and end up on the Pacific Ocean Coast in Makinohara – a distance of over 20kms. As most of the area is flat it makes for some great cycling experiences for cyclists of all levels and fitness levels – whether just spending a day cycling through the fields down to the coast and back or as a starting point to explore more of the coastline down to Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana.

The wild worlds just beyond Kawanehon Town: As you move inland from the Shizuoka coast to places like Kawanehon Town, you very quickly enter into a land of dramatic natural beauty, made up of rugged peaks, deep valleys with clear, natural rivers flowing out to the coast. Even in this environment, locals diligently tend to green tea plantations that grow a hardy variation of green tea that differs from what is grown on the bigger plantations on the lower Makinohara plain. Take a journey on a Steam Locomotive and follow the Oi River up into the mountains and stay with a local to really experience life in Shizuoka. Easy access from Kakegawa Station.

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!