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Nagano summer travel: the Nakasendo & Snow Monkeys

A contemporary strolls through one of Nagano Prefecture's ancient Nakasendo Highway juku post towns.

Nagano Prefecture is just north of Tokyo and the Hokuriku bullet train runs right through the center of the prefecture. Japan's Nagano region is mostly renowned for skiing, but it also draws a high number of Japanese tourists in summer for its spectacular range of outdoor activities.

And two really high value destinations in Nagano Prefecture are its lesser-known section of the Nakasendo Edo period highway juku checkpoint villages, and spending time around the prefecture's famous Snow Monkeys (yes, in summer!).

These Nagano Prefecture summer destinations are also popular:

Zenkoji Temple (north of Nagano Station): A significant Buddhist temple and a national treasure, offering a unique cultural experience.

Kamikochi: A stunning mountain village within the Northern Japanese Alps, known for its breathtaking natural scenery and hiking trails.

Hakuba Valley: A popular destination for outdoor activities, offering hiking, mountain biking, and other adventures in the mountains.

Togakushi Shrine (northwest of Nagano City): A historic shrine with ancient pilgrimage trails and a sense of tranquility.

Bessho Onsen (northeast of Matsumoto Station): A traditional onsen (hot spring) town with a variety of onsen and ryokan (traditional inns).

Daio Wasabi Farm (north of Matsumoto Station): Visit a farm that produces high-quality wasabi, and explore the farm's walking trails and wasabi museum.

Senjojiki Cirque (southwest of Matsumoto Station): A unique geological feature offering stunning views of alpine landscapes.

Shiga Kogen (northeast of Nagano Station): A beautiful plateau offering hiking, cycling, and other summer activities.

Nozawa Onsen (northeast of Nagano Station): A popular hot spring resort with a variety of onsen and ryokan.

Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort: A ski resort that transforms into a summer hiking destination, offering breathtaking views.

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Content by Ian Martin Ropke, owner of Your Japan Private Tours (est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with Japan private tour clients and have worked for all kinds of families, companies, and individuals since 1990. Clients find me mostly via organic search, and I advertise my custom Japan private tours & travel services on www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps in Japan! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip. And thank you for reading my content. I, Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search), am also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!

Nagano Prefecture's amazing Nakasendo highway hiking

The famous old Nakasendo road, which cuts through the mountainous center of Honshu Island, is one of Nagano Prefecture's main attractions. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the Nakasendo was one of five great ancient highways, known as the Gokaido, that connected different parts of Japan. The highway cut through Nagano Prefecture on the way to Kyoto (west) with Edo-Tokyo (south; the Tokugawa Shogunate's capital). And along the highway there were many juku checkpoints (essentially security and taxation checkpoints). Nagano's Nakasendo section has three juku or post towns (see below).

Most of the Nakasendo post towns are gone now. They have historical value, but they also have beautiful scenery, traditional buildings, a rural culture, and a chance to see what Japan was like in the past. You don't have to walk the whole length of the highway because the communities that are already there are well-connected and easy to get to by train. You can hike for a few hours or take the train to a few post towns and stay there for a few nights. So, lots of options!

Shimosuwa-juku post town or checkpoint: Shimosuwa-juku was a busy post town during the Edo Period because it located between two difficult mountain passes, the Wada Pass and the Shiojiri Pass. Shimosuwa was a very popular rest stop along the Nakasendo because it had a lot of hot springs, which were great for relaxing after long days of walking (and it was also relatively close to the shogun's capital of Edo-Tokyo). Shimosuwa was also the end of the Koshu Kaido, another significant road that connected Edo with Kai Province (now Yamanashi Prefecture). This made it a great place for a post town during the Edo period. How to get there: You can get to Shimosuwa-juku by using the local train on the JR Chuo Main Line. It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes to get from JR Shinjuku Station to JR Shimosuwa Station on the Limited Express Azusa train.

Narai-juku post town or checkpoint: Narai-juku was one of the richest post towns along the Nakasendo because so many people needed a place to relax and heal after crossing the nearby Torii Pass. The Edo period buildings along a one-kilometer stretch of the main street have been carefully conserved, so visitors may still feel the majesty and ambiance of the past. The Narai Kiso Bridge is made completely of now-rare cypress wood and crosses the Narai River. Narai-juku is a beautiful example of a post town that you can easily get to by local rail. It's a great place to spend a day or two. There are beautiful tiny temples and shrines just off the main road. There are also cafes, teahouses, soba eateries, and sake shops in the town's historic two-story wooden buildings. And it's a great place to purchased high-end lacquerware and woodwork. How to get there: You can get to Shimosuwa-juku by using the local train on the JR Chuo Main Line. It takes 3 hours to get from JR Shinjuku Station to JR Naraijuku Station on the Limited Express Azusa train.

Fukushima-juku post town or checkpoint: Located in the stunning Kiso Valley, Fukushima-juku was the middle point of the Nakasendo and one of four major security checkpoints during the Edo period. These days, it's a lovely spot to spend a few nights walking along the river, going to the many museums and temples, trekking in the nearby mountains, or relaxing in the baths at one of the ryokans in town. The town's distinctive "namako-kabe, or "sea cucumber walls," are earthen walls with a unique black and white pattern. They were a favorite style for rich merchants' homes in the Edo period. The Yamamura Residence used to belong to the family who ruled the Kiso Valley during the Edo period. It is now open to the public. Last but not least is Kozenji Temple, which has one of Japan's biggest Zen rock gardens. How to get there: From JR Nagoya Station, take the Limited Express Shinano to JR Kiso Fukushima Station (about 90 minutes). From Kiso Fukushima Station, it takes 10 minutes to walk to Fukushima-juku.

Nagano Prefecture's Jigokudani Snow Monkeys in summer

The summer months of June to August start with rain and then get hot and humid. Anyone who has been to Japan in the summer knows how hard it can be. And Nagano Prefecture's Snow Monkeys know this as well. There are less near the hot water pools in summer, as many choose to hang out in the shady slopes high above the pools. All the same, you will always see a few near the pools. So, it's not just a winter experience!

Japan's rainy season comes before the real summer heat. Heavy rain will be common and spectacular starting around mid-June. Because of this, it is one of the best times of year to visit the park, but also one of the quietest. The rain makes the park's grass and trees look bright green, and new growth seems to come out of nowhere. Rain and mist flow across the valley, making a one-of-a-kind ambiance that seems to make the monkeys go crazy.

In July, the new babies are getting more sure of themselves. Moms let them wander and explore a little, which is a clumsy and embarrassing show that entertains the few people who are at the park. It will be hot in late July and early August. In the middle of summer, the air will be rather humid.

When it's hot outside, it's nice to go on the forest route. It's nice to walk to and from the park because it's much cooler and quite quiet. Wear light clothes because it's hot, but bring a cap and drink. We also suggest that you wear good shoes.

Hotarutei, just outside of the park, is the closest place to the monkey park for exquisite eating. It is in a 170-year-old farmhouse that has been beautifully renovated.

Nagano's Snow Monkeys in June

June is the start of the rainy season in central Japan, which means that both the monkeys and the people who come to see them will get wet. The monkeys are used to getting wet, so they don't mind a little rain. On days that are a little cooler, you can observe some monkeys warming up in the onsen hot spring waters. Even when it's sunny and warm, some monkeys will still go into the bath, even to dive and swim.

Nagano's Snow Monkeys in July

July is when the real summer heat hits Nagano, and you can often find the monkeys lounging around at noon to stay cool. Many monkeys remain active in the heat, hunting for food or testing their status in the social hierarchy. Since the first half of the month is still part of the rainy season, rain is to be expected. It will be cooler at this time, but throughout the day it could still easily get over 30 degrees. The real heat of summer will start in the second part of the month.

Nagano's Snow Monkeys in August

August is the last month of summer, and it's probably the hottest month at the park on average. Typhoons also start to show up around this time, so the weather can be unpredictable. But the beauty of a perfect sunny summer day more than makes up for it. The Nagano summer has many days that are perfect for trekking and enjoying the outdoors because the temperatures are lower than in most other sections of central, western, and southern Japan and the humidity is also lower. It could become as hot as 35 degrees, so you should take steps to avoid heat stroke. The monkey park is one of the coolest and most refreshing places you visit in Japan in August. The baby monkeys are now a little more daring and willing to leave their parents' side. They typically join big groups of friends who are hunting for trouble. They might even try to climb up your leg! The elder monkeys may look exhausted from the heat and ready to relax, but the newborns don't seem to care at all and won't let anything get in the way of exploring their new world. Enjoy!

Content by Japan travel specialist & designer Ian Martin Ropke, founder & owner of Your Japan Private Tours (YJPT, est. 1990). I have been planning, designing, and making custom Japan private tours on all five Japanese islands since the early 1990s. I work closely with all of YJPT's Japan private tour clients and have a great team behind me. I promote YJPT through this content and only advertise at www.japan-guide.com, which has the best all-Japan English content & maps! If you are going to Japan and you understand the advantages of private travel, consider my services for your next trip to save time & have a better time. Ian Martin Ropke (unique on Google Search) is also a serious nonfiction and fiction writer, a startup founder (NexussPlus.com), and a spiritual wood sculptor. Learn more!